Raw Denim Fabric Guide
Every single one of us has experienced the discomfort of sitting down to a nice meal with someone who, when the waiter arrives, orders a steak well done. No irony, no sarcasm, totally deadpan. Heresy in a public place. An overcooked steak is a crime, and so is overcooked denim. The denim we’re here to talk about today is, in the words of a very famous chef, F*CKING RAW! Let’s get into it.
What is raw denim?
Raw denim has not been treated, pre-washed, or shrunk. It is simply denim in its purest form. Some jeans or jackets are pre-washed or shrunk in order to make them softer on first wear. There are positives to that, of course there are, but it’s a little bit like getting your mate to break in a new pair of shoes for you. They’ll be softer but they’ll never truly be yours. They won’t have developed to the exact contours of your body (and you might get a veruca from your pal, which is very primary-school-swimming-lessons and unbecoming of a grown man). This is where raw denim excels.
What is unique about raw denim?
Every single tiny bit of fading or natural creasing, every little stretch or natural shaping of the denim over time is going to be uniquely attuned to your body, and nobody else’s. Raw denim essentially provides you with a customised item without paying extra, as long as you are willing to break it in, a bit like that white Arabian horse up in the mountains in Red Dead Redemption 2. Sort of.
Raw denim vs regular denim
Regular denim is softer than raw denim straight off the shelf, but it’s an artificial softness that won’t listen to your body. Raw denim is a little stiffer at first but, once it gets to know you, it’ll be a more loyal friend than any regular denim could ever be.
What's the difference between raw and selvedge denim?
Selvedge denim tends to refer to a specific style of denim—usually featuring a traditional shuttle loom seam on the inside (don’t worry about it). Raw denim isn’t a specific style or design, it simply refers to the fabric itself.
Why choose raw denim jeans?
Raw denim jeans are a long term project and you will be rewarded for your patience. Raw denim jeans are for the stylish man who knows it’s better to keep your powder dry and win the long game, rather than blowing through three pairs of jeans that’ll never look as good as a lived-in pair you raised from their raw beginnings.
How raw denim fades with wear
Arguably the best thing about raw denim is that it will naturally fade exactly where your body’s movements tell it to. Those little patches of fading are like tattoos and battle scars unique to your body and your lifestyle.
Does raw denim last longer?
Yes. Raw denim hasn’t been pre-washed, mashed up with stones, or had its fibres intentionally damaged in order to make it look like it’s lived a life that it hasn’t. Pokémon is cool again, so to use an analogy, raw denim has more natural HP than regular processed denim. Regular denim is Magikarp, raw denim is Snorlax. Clear? Good.
How should raw denim fit?
Raw denim should fit a little tighter than regular denim at first. It’s going to stretch and adapt to you over time like a new pair of leather shoes, so don’t be frightened to go a little tighter initially.
Should you size down for raw denim?
You don’t necessarily need to size down, but that depends on the fit. We recommend a little tighter than your usual fit to start with, but not too tight. If you can go down a size and still be comfortable, go for it, and this may help the long-term aging process, but don’t overdo it.
How much does raw denim shrink?
Shrinkage varies, but raw denim generally shrinks by about 8-10% from its initial size. But, Perci, you said dropping a size would be fine! You’re right. Raw denim will shrink where it needs to but stretch where necessary too. It’s more malleable than regular denim. Raw denim is unsanforised, meaning it hasn’t been pre-shrunk. Sanforised denim is pre-shrunk with steam or heat (or both), so it won’t change shape much after purchase. This makes regular denim a safer option for the average man, but you know better now, and good luck trying to unknow what you’ve learned on this page.
How to break in raw denim jeans
Honestly? Just wear them. No tricks, no novelties. Just wear them for best results.
Should raw denim feel stiff at first?
Yeah, a little bit. Don’t be afraid—this won’t last. If raw denim is super soft straight out of the box, be suspicious.
How to wash raw denim
Turn them inside-out, wash them on a low temperature, dry them naturally, laid flat if possible. Let your body do all of the shaping and stretching, not inconvenient external forces like gravity or excessive heat.
How often should you wash raw denim?
As little as you can get away with. Three times a year is ideal, but that’s not a hard-and-fast rule. If you washed them a month ago and then you spill a bowl of bolognese over yourself, don’t wait for the season to change. Obviously.
Can raw denim be ironed?
We’d recommend avoiding using an iron on your raw denim if possible, but if you really, really need to, just turn them inside out and be as gentle as you can. This will avoid damage to the natural fibers of your denim.
Does raw denim rub off onto other fabrics?
On first few wears, yes, some of the dye can rub off. That’s because raw denim retains all of the dye originally put into the fabric, and it’s also what helps it to age and wear uniquely to your body and its movements. Try putting them on a gentle wash before first wear in order to remove any excess dye.
How to style men's raw denim jeans
Raw denim jeans are incredibly versatile, and you can find an entire Style Guide on how to wear them best. A classic, high-quality white tee is a smart and safe bet, but you are so free to experiment.
What shoes to wear with raw denim jeans
For a casual look, go with a pair of Van’s Premium Authentic 44s. For a smarter fit, something like these Kleman Padrors are a solid bet.
What jacket to wear with raw denim jeans
If you’re feeling confident, double down on the double denim. For a more classic fit, something along the lines of a Fontane Fireman Clasp Jacket is a great shout.
